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mitch
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Post subject:
 Posted: Nov 20, 2009 - 11:31 AM
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Joined: Apr 21, 2006
Toowoomba Australia
Posts: 769
Status: Offline
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| Same shaft, thought better shot may help. |
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non-Q 1975 1210 2wd
model# 1210/1 728931
engine# AD4/55A 26193
1975 1412 2wd
model# 1412/1 1050623
engine# 455011 120673
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Post subject:
Posted: Nov 20, 2009 - 12:44 PM
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Joined: Jan 03, 2006
Warwickshire
Posts: 2608
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Right. It seems as if we have an image problem here (That's the story of my life !!!) That first photo 5646 shows a shaft that is absolutely shot (but some folks have been advocating just putting it back together  )
Image 5647 alludes to a shaft that is O.K. But I would have no problem in putting the shaft and coupling as shown in 5682 back in again.
I can't see image 5649.
And Mitch isn't being helped at all, only getting more and more confused. Send us more piccies Mitch and we'll try harder.  |
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Three is twee, four is poor, but 6 just clicks........Scooby
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Post subject: Re: pump shaft
Posted: Nov 20, 2009 - 12:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 03, 2006
Warwickshire
Posts: 2608
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joeproctor wrote:
scooby every time you post the more i think that you know where a money tree is or you have been lucky and found that pot of gold at the end of the rainbow!
keep smiling
regards
joe
Nothing to do with a money tree Joe, I've been as hard up as anyone. It's all to do with doing any job properly. I did my contracting properly, I did my farming properly, and together with Alchad I even try and run this web site properly. The cheapest repair is to do it once. If your tractors are just for playing then maybe it doesn't matter quite so much but my constitution doesn't let me do bodges.
But hey, look on the bright side. When I'm in the box and my good lady is having a dispersal sale you can come and bid in the knowledge that anything you buy will make it past the next corner. |
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Three is twee, four is poor, but 6 just clicks........Scooby
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Powerrabbit
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Post subject: RE: Re: pump shaft
Posted: Nov 20, 2009 - 01:46 PM
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Joined: Jan 03, 2007
Devon
Posts: 3027
Status: Offline
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| Seems like there is a lot of confusion here as to wheather to 'replace it or leave it'. So lets go with this. A very close D.B. engineer/fitter of 46 years experience told me that if you have anything from 5mm rotation 'slop' between the gear components of both or either end of the shaft and 'sockets', then replace the lot ESPECIALLY if the tractor has a Hydra-Shift gearbox. |
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DB780
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Post subject:
Posted: Nov 20, 2009 - 02:23 PM
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Joined: Dec 30, 2005
Lincolnshire
Posts: 708
Status: Offline
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Scooby says I can't see image 5649.
Nor can I David, must be seeing things. |
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broadsword
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Post subject: Re: pump shaft
Posted: Nov 20, 2009 - 02:52 PM
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Joined: Jun 12, 2008
Holmfirth, Huddersfield
Posts: 901
Status: Offline
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But hey, look on the bright side. When I'm in the box and my good lady is having a dispersal sale you can come and bid in the knowledge that anything you buy will make it past the next corner.[/b][/color][/quote]
Scooby - I hope that is many decades in the future (well years anyway ).
I see your point though, anything bought at your dispersal sale would be bought with complete confidence knowing the care and attention that has been lavished on them.
A bit simular to the confidence in items ever bought from a future dispersal sale for either myslef or Joe for that matter
Cheers
Andy |
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Post subject: Re: pump shaft
Posted: Nov 20, 2009 - 04:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 03, 2006
Warwickshire
Posts: 2608
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mitch
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Post subject: RE: Re: pump shaft
Posted: Nov 20, 2009 - 10:37 PM
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Joined: Apr 21, 2006
Toowoomba Australia
Posts: 769
Status: Offline
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| I think the moral here is make sure you post very clear pictures depicting what your problem is. Thanks for all replies guys, appreciate it. |
_________________
non-Q 1975 1210 2wd
model# 1210/1 728931
engine# AD4/55A 26193
1975 1412 2wd
model# 1412/1 1050623
engine# 455011 120673
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bmcgahan
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Post subject:
Posted: Nov 21, 2009 - 12:54 AM
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Joined: Dec 30, 2005
Donaghmore, County Tyrone, Northern Ireland
Posts: 201
Status: Offline
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| Mitch why dont you pull the shaft out of the coupling or slide it up the shaft then take photos off the teeth on each. i still wouldnt replace it going by either photo. The key to being a good mechanic is knowing what not to replace. you will find mechanics that replace parts with poorer quality after market parts and they usually dont last as long as the slightly worn original parts will. The only thing is mitch, when you make a decision on this and get it rebuilt you will know what to do the next time round |
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mitch
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Post subject:
Posted: Nov 21, 2009 - 05:49 AM
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Joined: Apr 21, 2006
Toowoomba Australia
Posts: 769
Status: Offline
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| OK here are some more? |
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81.39 KB |
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619 Time(s) |
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92.25 KB |
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618 Time(s) |
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_________________
non-Q 1975 1210 2wd
model# 1210/1 728931
engine# AD4/55A 26193
1975 1412 2wd
model# 1412/1 1050623
engine# 455011 120673
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jimc1390
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Post subject:
Posted: Nov 21, 2009 - 09:40 AM
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Joined: Jan 11, 2009
cornwall
Posts: 1018
Status: Offline
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fire her back together buddy, i wouldn't be worried about that, far to easy for other people to spend your money  |
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db 990 selectamatic
case ih 1594 com ed
db 1210 vq cab
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bmcgahan
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Post subject:
Posted: Nov 21, 2009 - 09:55 AM
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Joined: Dec 30, 2005
Donaghmore, County Tyrone, Northern Ireland
Posts: 201
Status: Offline
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| There is very slight wear pump side and looks like little wear crank side although i would suggest there is a little wear in the crank coupling. good wire brush/degrease and put plenty of copper grease round it. have it bulging out while refitting rubber sealing rings. i actually have a few spare rubber spacing discs about but getting them to austrailia is another problem. i wonder if you have the dimensions could you make one. |
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Post subject:
Posted: Nov 21, 2009 - 10:32 AM
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Joined: Jan 03, 2006
Warwickshire
Posts: 2608
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O.K. Mitch, as I said before, it was a problem with that 5646 image. The coupling and shaft look totally shot in that photo. But these last two photos. shown, as long as they are the same all the way round, show that your shaft is actually in very good condition for the age of the tractor and as long as the couplings are similar button it back up with the O rings and spacer(s). The dimensions of spacers are shown in the parts info. that I posted earlier.
Usually they look like IOM's 002 image and they need throwing in the skip at that stage.
You're a lucky chap Mitch but put it back correctly and you'll be fine.
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Three is twee, four is poor, but 6 just clicks........Scooby
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mitch
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Post subject:
Posted: Nov 21, 2009 - 10:52 AM
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Joined: Apr 21, 2006
Toowoomba Australia
Posts: 769
Status: Offline
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| Good one, I have new orings and spacer ordered. Cheers |
_________________
non-Q 1975 1210 2wd
model# 1210/1 728931
engine# AD4/55A 26193
1975 1412 2wd
model# 1412/1 1050623
engine# 455011 120673
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broadsword
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Post subject:
Posted: Nov 21, 2009 - 11:10 AM
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Joined: Jun 12, 2008
Holmfirth, Huddersfield
Posts: 901
Status: Offline
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Who says the camera never lies!!!!
Andy |
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