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bimmerpowerOffline
Post subject: Case 380/885 3pt not working after Filter & Diesel Flush  PostPosted: 23.07.2010, 02:10



Joined: 08.07.2010
USA CT
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Well, after a diesel flush and hydraulic filter change I still have no lift in my 3pt hitch. I'm beginning to believe that something has lodged/embedded itself in the valves and need to be cleaned somewhere in the system considering the condition of the hydraulic oil. I'm hoping some of you 885 gurus can point me in the direction of the next best step.

I did happen to get my repair manual but it does not do a good job to illustrate where the components actually are. I'm starting to believe I actually ordered the wrong manual for my tractor. The next best step I think would be to check the screen drain plug that is in the chest valve? I would then like to flush/run fluid from the nipple/bleeder in the hydraulic system in order to make sure oil is getting to the system. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to where I can do that?! I understand that I probably sound like a complete amateur, but I am mechanically inclined and know absolutely nothing about 3pt hitches or tractors. I have included some pictures of the components on my tractor. Where is this so-called magnetic mesh screen? Thanks for any input.

1)

By protechservices at 2010-07-22

2)

By protechservices at 2010-07-22

3)

By protechservices at 2010-07-22

4)

By protechservices at 2010-07-22
 
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erkkiOffline
Post subject: RE: Case 380/885 3pt not working after Filter & Diesel F  PostPosted: 23.07.2010, 06:58



Joined: 09.04.2006
North Finland
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Does the loader work? If yes, the pump is ok and its no bleed problem. Next step is clenaing by-pass valve.
You will see a 2" dia cover behind the control lever, connected by two screws. Open it. Below you se two caps and a valve just behind one of them. Hold-release valve is below the left cap, by-pass valve is below the right cap. First check and clean them. Knock the cap loos by a chisel and hammer, unscrew it open carefully, there is a spring pushing up below. Pull out the spring and the plunger from the bore. Its easiest by a wooden conical stick, just some thicker than a pencil. Ensure the the plunger slides freely in the bore. By pass valve under the right hand side cap must be cleaned carefully. There should be inside a brass screw, an orfice plate with a pin hole in the middle and a nylon gauze. It is essential that the pin hole in the orfice plate is not plugged and the screen in the bottom of the plunger is clean. When the by-pass valve is out, start the engine idling. There should burst up a steady, bulbless oli flow from the bore. Dont throttle, the oil will flow on the floor! When the parts are clean and oil flow is ok, put the things back together and look behind the by-pass valve cap. The double nuts of the spool valve shall sit tightly aginst the valve chest when the control lever is back.When pushing he lever front, the nuts will raise a copule of mm:s. If the valve does not lower to the downmost position, the arms will not lift. It can be pushed down by screwdriver tip if its some sticky but remember that the control lever must be back then. Try these first.

RGDS
 
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dskOffline
Post subject: RE: Case 380/885 3pt not working after Filter & Diesel F  PostPosted: 23.07.2010, 08:37



Joined: 06.05.2010
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Erkki doesn't seem to have read the bit about the seperate pump for the Loader.
Can you get the external hoses to work anything? That would also be a way of telling if the relevant pump was flowing.

_________________
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erkkiOffline
Post subject: RE: Case 380/885 3pt not working after Filter & Diesel F  PostPosted: 23.07.2010, 10:19



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Sorry, just imagined that the double acting valve operates loader.
Still I would start sorting things by checkin the valves first.

RGDS
 
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bimmerpowerOffline
Post subject: Re: RE: Case 380/885 3pt not working after Filter & Dies  PostPosted: 23.07.2010, 16:44



Joined: 08.07.2010
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      erkki wrote:
Does the loader work? If yes, the pump is ok and its no bleed problem. Next step is clenaing by-pass valve.
You will see a 2" dia cover behind the control lever, connected by two screws. Open it. Below you se two caps and a valve just behind one of them. Hold-release valve is below the left cap, by-pass valve is below the right cap. First check and clean them. Knock the cap loos by a chisel and hammer, unscrew it open carefully, there is a spring pushing up below. Pull out the spring and the plunger from the bore. Its easiest by a wooden conical stick, just some thicker than a pencil. Ensure the the plunger slides freely in the bore. By pass valve under the right hand side cap must be cleaned carefully. There should be inside a brass screw, an orfice plate with a pin hole in the middle and a nylon gauze. It is essential that the pin hole in the orfice plate is not plugged and the screen in the bottom of the plunger is clean. When the by-pass valve is out, start the engine idling. There should burst up a steady, bulbless oli flow from the bore. Dont throttle, the oil will flow on the floor! When the parts are clean and oil flow is ok, put the things back together and look behind the by-pass valve cap. The double nuts of the spool valve shall sit tightly aginst the valve chest when the control lever is back.When pushing he lever front, the nuts will raise a copule of mm:s. If the valve does not lower to the downmost position, the arms will not lift. It can be pushed down by screwdriver tip if its some sticky but remember that the control lever must be back then. Try these first.

RGDS


RGDS, thanks for the info. I will look into cleaning the valves as you said. Just to clarify, the cover is in between the 3pt lever and the TCU switch in picture 3?

DSK, I have in fact checked the remote hoses (the two black hoses controlled by the lever in picture 3) and they build pressure flawlessly. That leads me to believe that the hydraulic pump is in fact working. I just hope that the remote hydraulics and the 3pt hitch work off of the same pump and hence scratches the possibility of a bad pump.
 
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erkkiOffline
Post subject: RE: Re: RE: Case 380/885 3pt not working after Filter &   PostPosted: 23.07.2010, 17:31



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The double acting valves get pressure from the same pump with link arms, so if they seem to work, probably its onlu cleaning of by-pass valve which is needed to make rear lif work. Good luck.
 
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bimmerpowerOffline
Post subject: RE: Re: RE: Case 380/885 3pt not working after Filter &  PostPosted: 24.07.2010, 19:45



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Thanks for the informative posts. I managed to remove and clean the bypass valve and components and everything looked good. I bled and purged the system with the bypass valve out as well to clean any sediment trapped below it. I also noticed that the spool valve does move freely forward and back in when the lever is moved.

The hold release valve is a different story however. I managed to remove the cap/screw containing it, the spring and the metal screen with three holes. I cannot get the plunger out for the life of me. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to get it out if it's stuck? Screw? Heat? Torch? I'm assuming this is where my problem is as nothing is passing out of the valve (aka it does not remove freely). Thanks!

edit: Did I forget to remove a snap ring or fitting keeping the hold valve in place?
 
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erkkiOffline
Post subject: RE: Re: RE: Case 380/885 3pt not working after Filter &  PostPosted: 25.07.2010, 09:50



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If the hold-release valve is stuck down, it allows you to lift the arms, but they will not lower.
It has made some oxide between, so soaking is the first thing to do. If you have possibilities to contact a company which carries out Non Destructive Testing of metals (motor componets, cranes, pressure equipment etc)ask if they can supply you penetration liquid which is used for detecting surface cracks from welds. Its the best liquid in penetrating to a microscopic gap.

Its possible that oil pressure below the plunger is able to push it up. It can be some messy trial. First you must get the system lifting. Leave the cap of the hold-release valve off and pull the control lever far back. The system will push full hydraulic pressure below the hold-release plunger, ther will be sharp oil from the bore which runs through the plunger and finally possible shoots the plunger up. If the cover is attached, there will not be flood of oil and on the other hand, I quess there is not enough space to the plunger to jump out of the bore. If you try that, be careful, pressurized oil flow is risky for skin.

Good luck
 
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porkayOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: 12.04.2011, 03:59



Joined: 12.04.2011
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I have a twin to the tractor described above. 3 pt does not work, filter assembly dismantled, bulbous filter bowl, corrupted hydraulic fluid...no mouse though. The fluid in my 380 was so thick that it would not come out of the drain plug. I believe that the convex shape of the bottom of the filter bowl is due to condensation building up in the bowl and then freezing and expanding the metal. Mine was stored outside most of the time until I bought it. The pick up tube that the filter fits in to was also pushed up about 1/4 inch. ie: the front tab that bolts to the cast housing was bent (assuming also due to freezing) enough that the filter assembly neck with O-ring would not engage the pick up tube. Was able to pull it back down with a wire rope and a port a power.

3 pt still does not work though.
Just wondering if you solved your 3pt problem.
 
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erkkiOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: 12.04.2011, 14:27



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Hi porkay.

Easy things first. Open the cover behind the control lever, open the by-pass valve cap on the right, pull out spring and the plunger and start the engine idling. You should get a steady, bulbless oil flow pushing up from the by pass valve bore. If nothing happens there is something wrong with the pump. Open the brass screw inside the by-pass valve plunger and carefully clean the orfice plate pin hole and the screen. Pull the control lever back and check that the spool valve just behind the by-pass valve bore lowers down tightly the small nuts against the valve chest. If there is dirt between, clean it if the nuts do not lower, try helping them by screwdriver tip.
Put the things back together and hope the best.

RGDS
 
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bimmerpowerOffline
Post subject:   PostPosted: 13.04.2011, 19:20



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I'm going to try and get my tractor 3pt hitch up and running again this weekend. I will let you know how things turn out!
 
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