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eds2
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Post subject: 995 Axle housing troubles
 Posted: 21.03.2012, 05:28
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Joined: 28.05.2008
san ramon, california
Posts: 42
Location: san ramon, california
Status: Offline
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| Can't seem to get the axle housing out, stripped out one of the 1/4 inch threaded holes already, tried to make the special tool using 1/8 angle iron (which bent) then 1/4 flat iron (also bent)now preparing to use 1/2 inch piece. Tried to heat it up a bit but so far no luck. Any help would be appreciated. Ed |
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Powerrabbit
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Post subject: RE: 995 Axle housing troubles
Posted: 21.03.2012, 08:19
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Joined: 03.01.2007
Devon
Posts: 5634
Location: Devon
Status: Offline
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| What part of the axle are you trying to dismantle Ed? It's not really that clear from your description, a picture with arrows or line drawing of the axle would be a good help for us to be able to better help you. |
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eds2
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Post subject:
Posted: 21.03.2012, 20:07
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Joined: 28.05.2008
san ramon, california
Posts: 42
Location: san ramon, california
Status: Offline
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| Here are some pics of the current problem. I am trying to remove the housing that holds the axle seals where the axle goes into the case. |
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WesBrown
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Post subject:
Posted: 21.03.2012, 20:17
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Joined: 11.05.2007
Lancashire, Ribble Valley.
Posts: 239
Location: Lancashire, Ribble Valley.
Status: Offline
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| Ah, right. You are doing the right thing, you just need something more substantial, some angle iron perhaps. Maybe the last person loctited it in? Sometimes you may need to persuade it with a small chisel to get it started. |
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mburns
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Post subject:
Posted: 21.03.2012, 21:13
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Joined: 13.04.2008
devon
Posts: 901
Location: devon
Status: Offline
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You can do it with an old wood chisel , the wedge shape does a good job just be carefull , perhaps a bit of penertrating fluid first to help this method worked well on my 900.
Monty |
_________________
DB 900 1958
DB 1490 4WD
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Powerrabbit
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Post subject:
Posted: 21.03.2012, 22:27
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Joined: 03.01.2007
Devon
Posts: 5634
Location: Devon
Status: Offline
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| I notice from the pictures that the axle is dry with no sign of leaking oil so why do you want to change the seals?, they're not leaking so the housings don't need removing, so where is your problem? To quote 'Number 5' from the film 'Short Circuit', more input, more input. |
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cambs1594
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Post subject:
Posted: 21.03.2012, 22:29
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Joined: 01.06.2011
cambridgeshire
Posts: 1840
Location: cambridgeshire
Status: Offline
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if you look closely at the first pic Powerrabbit, notice anything? Yes, the diff lock pedals up, theres your answer  |
_________________
990 selectamatic
1390/gd90 loader
1494
1594 comm edition
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Powerrabbit
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Post subject:
Posted: 21.03.2012, 22:34
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Joined: 03.01.2007
Devon
Posts: 5634
Location: Devon
Status: Offline
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| Point taken. Still no need to renew the seals though even if the housing is removed to give better access to the difflock mechanism. Was it mentioned that this was the reason for removal? |
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cambs1594
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Post subject:
Posted: 21.03.2012, 22:39
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Joined: 01.06.2011
cambridgeshire
Posts: 1840
Location: cambridgeshire
Status: Offline
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| i would guess that a routine brake shoe service has led to the diff lock sleeve falling out, its a peculiarity to DBs that a lot of people arent aware of, the fact you must secure the diff lock down before removing the reduction unit, seen it done many times by people new to the tractors. Simple enough job re-fitting it with the right tool though. |
_________________
990 selectamatic
1390/gd90 loader
1494
1594 comm edition
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eds2
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Post subject:
Posted: 22.03.2012, 03:43
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Joined: 28.05.2008
san ramon, california
Posts: 42
Location: san ramon, california
Status: Offline
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Actually the problem I was trying to fix was a major oil leak between the transmission and differential. It seems that I have to take the whole darn thing apart just to replace that gasket. I thought the housing would be simple to get out, but of course nothing seems to be simple with this beast. I will give the wood chisel a try, I figured someone would have a trick.
As far as the brakes and the diff lock sleeve go, I actually did wire up the pedal so the sleeve is still in place despite how the pedal looks in the photo. I thought I would be able to pull the case off that way, but that of course didn't work. Powerrabit do you think I can reuse the seals since they were not leaking, or would it be best just to replace them now?
Since the brakes were basically down to metal and one of the drums is a bit scuffed, I thought I would pull it off also. Just a matter of putting two bolts through the drum to get it off?
Thanks, Ed |
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DB780
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Post subject:
Posted: 22.03.2012, 08:10
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Joined: 30.12.2005
Lincolnshire
Posts: 1177
Location: Lincolnshire
Status: Offline
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| I know it's a bit late now, Ed but if you don't have to do it like that. If you support the front half under the transmission and wheel the back axle and gearbox away on the wheels supported by your crane. |
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Powerrabbit
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Post subject:
Posted: 22.03.2012, 09:05
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Joined: 03.01.2007
Devon
Posts: 5634
Location: Devon
Status: Offline
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| There is no need to remove the seal housings or renew the seals Ed for what you wish to do. If it's the gasket behind the axle around the PTO housing that's leaking, all you need to do is to undo the ring of bolts around it, slide it back just enough to insert a new gasket and bolt it up again. If the leak is in the front of the axle where the rear of the gearbox mates to it then that's a bit more difficult and you would have to undo all the nuts and bolts that attach the back axle to the gearbox, slide the whole rear axle back just enough again to insert the new gasket. You would have to insert the gasket in two halves, which I think is the way it comes, top of gearbox section and under section that follows the U section of the gearbox rear casting. These gaskets were originally only made of thin blue paper. Don't use any silicone type sealants as silicone will not seal against oil. |
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cambs1594
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Post subject:
Posted: 22.03.2012, 09:31
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Joined: 01.06.2011
cambridgeshire
Posts: 1840
Location: cambridgeshire
Status: Offline
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| later on in producion no paper gasket was used on this joint, there had been problems for years with the paper gaskets extruding from th joint and causing oil leakage, this was due to the twisting effect on the rear axle caused by heavy draft work. The later tractors had loctite gasket compound on the main axle and pto case joints which did cure the oil leaks |
_________________
990 selectamatic
1390/gd90 loader
1494
1594 comm edition
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TEZB
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Post subject:
Posted: 22.03.2012, 19:52
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Joined: 06.07.2006
Posts: 230
Status: Offline
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| There has never been a cure for oil leak's on David Brown's, nearesst they got was changing from power red to black to hide the problem |
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eds2
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Post subject:
Posted: 25.03.2012, 04:17
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Joined: 28.05.2008
san ramon, california
Posts: 42
Location: san ramon, california
Status: Offline
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Powerrabbit, unfortunately it is the gasket in front of the axle case that meets the gearbox. I had already purchased the gasket from Case and it is a one piece gasket. Initially I wired up the diff lock pedal, but then found that I can't pull the axle case back with the diff lock pedal wired in place. So, when I remove the wire, the diff lock will drop and then I will have to get the axle shaft housing out anyway to put the diff lock back in place. My current plan was to pull the axle shaft housing, then remove the diff lock sleeve, and hopefully I will be able to pull the rear axle case away from the gearbox to replace the gasket.
Cambs, you don't think I should put a new gasket in at all? Just use loctite gasket compound instead? I sure don't want to do all this work and then have it leak again. Ed |
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